Chastleton House, unlike many stately homes, is set right upon the village road.
Two years ago we were walking in the Cotswolds when we came upon a beautiful, gracefully aging National Trust home, Chastleton House. At the time we were in no shape for a proper visit—we were muddy from our walk and had an even muddier dog with us, and, as I later discovered, admittance is limited on a timed entry scheme. But I vowed to return one day, without the dog and the mud, and yesterday, a friend and I made the hour-plus trek out along the A44 to Chastleton.
Chastleton was built between 1607 and 1612 by Walter Jones, a lawyer and MP of Welsh descent. He acquired the land from the previous owner, Robert Catesby, who was killed while trying to pull off the Gunpowder Plot. He tore down the existing structure and built the Jacobean Chastleton House, which stayed in his family for centuries, despite their declining economic circumstances.
Due to an unfortunately alliance during the Civil War, the family were taxed heavily and over the years lost much of the surrounding property, and thus the ability to make modern updates to the home. Unfortunate for them; lucky for us, as it's one of the few Jacobean structures in existence with its interiors and exteriors in almost original condition.
The croquet lawns, at the back of the house.
In 1991 the National Trust acquired the home and its contents, just in time for the aging roof to be blown off during a severe storm. The house, unlike many National Trust homes, was allowed to remain as it was, or as one steward told us, "it hasn't been tarted up". That makes for an interesting tour—scarred wood, fading tapestries, and obvious signs of shabby gentility remain.
The gardens, however, are in splendid condition. A round topiary garden is carefully pruned, though its original shapes have disappeared. Chastleton House is where the rules for croquet were first written by Walter Jones-Whitmore, so appropriately the croquet lawn is set up for croquet competitions.
The Topiary Garden, first laid out in Tudor times, once featured distinct shapes of a cakestand, teapot, sheep, chicken, horse, squirrel, ship, peacock and crown but now have faded into amorphous lumps.
The 12th century parish church, the Church of St Mary, next to the
property is worth a peek inside, as well. The graves outside have long
since lost their imprints and are covered with moss and ivy, but inside
are several well-marked graves and memorials, and some lovely floor
tiles.
As in many old English churchyards, the grave stones are illegible, moss-covered and in danger of toppling.
Chastleton House is located just east of Chipping Norton on the A44 near the turnoff for the Rollright Stones and Little Compton. It's almost 2 hours from London by car, almost unreachable by public transport. There's a lovely walk from Adlestrop, however, which is apparently near a rail line.
The house is open until the end of October, but only Wednesday through Sunday between 1 and 4 p.m. Call ahead for timed tickets.
Chastleton House, one of the finest Jacobean homes in England, in nearly original condition.
