The sun sets on the Forum.
Strap on your sandals and join me for a walking tour of Rome...
Walk along a sidewalk in Rome. It doesn't have to be a particularly noteworthy sidewalk; just about any will do. See the fence next to you? Look over, and down, and chances are, you'll find ancient Roman litter. Rome, remember, was once inhabited by over a million people, and they left a lot of old stuff for us to look at. Time has covered most of it up, with over 20 feet of dust and detritus. But you will soon learn to look down, to the Roman level where ceasars and senators once strode, on the very same lanes you're strolling now.
Walk into the Pantheon, and marvel at the ingenuity of your ancestors. They built the monument to "all the gods" but their gods are suspiciously silent now, awed by what their worshipers wrought in their names. No deity can compete—and the deities didn't even have to worry about plumbing, which ancient Romans conquered along with half the known world. Just take a look at the still-standing aqueducts, which carried water over long distances (on the train to Frascati you can see a good portion of them) and the enormous bath palaces they built.
You may find there are just too many people walking around Rome today, all of them wearing the sensible shoes of tourists. If so, time your visits well: avoid the Forum in the middle of the day, when the main drag (Via Sacra) is jammed with human flesh, and go in the evening an hour before it closes.
Visit Palatine Hill just above the Forum instead, where for a price (11€), you can see even more extensive ruins than the Forum. Palatine Hill was the high rent district of ancient Rome, where wealthy Romans lived. It's also where Iron Age huts were found, similar to the ones where Remus and Romulus were born. Plus, it's remarkably free of tourists, something you'll come to appreciate the longer you stay in Rome.
Fortunately, your ticket to Palatine Hill gets you into the Colosseum as well, allowing you to avoid the long line for tickets. Of course, if you were an ancient Roman you wouldn't call it the Colosseum; you'd call it the Amphiteatrum Flavium. The term Colosseum only came about in the Middle Ages.
Cross the street, avoiding modern Roman traffic, and visit Trajan's Markets and the Imperial Forum, still undergoing excavation. While you're there, gaze up at Trajan's Column. It's amazing how much Trajan looks like Pope Sixtus V, isn't it?
There are other bits and pieces of ancient Rome, too many to see in one day, or even three. But perhaps you're ready to fast forward through time to the Middle Ages, to the time of the Renaissance. A different god was worshiped, in fact, many of the Roman temples were simply renamed for saints. Christianity made its mark here, its art no less impressive than the monuments the ceasars built. You can also visit the Christian catacombs under some of the churches, an especially good place to visit if it's raining.
Join the throng of tourists queuing for the Vatican City museums and the Sistene Chapel. Michaelangelo spent 4 years painting the ceiling; the least you can do is spend a few minutes craning your neck to see it. (Prepare to be underwhelmed however, if it's a cloudy day and the chapel is dim—there's very little artificial light except for some ugly florescents around the floor. And try to ignore the loudspeaker telling you to be quiet, and the tourists ignoring the commands not to take photos.) On your way out, take a photo of the Swiss Guards; they stand there posing for hours.
Hungry? Head over to Campo de Fiori open air market. There you can buy your dried (and fresh, this time of year) porcinis, fruit, nuts, fresh capers, olives, squash blossoms, and other seasonal goodies. If you get there after the marquees fold up (around 1:30) some of the shops near the market sell food items too, but remember, you'll have to lug that can of olive oil around with you the next few hours unless you're staying nearby.
Save some time to wander up Via Veneto and experience la dolce vita. If you haven't seen the movie by Fellini, don't fret; there are several inviting pastry shops where the sweet life is available in carbohydrate form.
You'll inevitably tramp up and down the Spanish Steps at least once, dodging teenagers on holiday. Want to climb more steps, in a more awe inspiring location? Find the Victor Emmanuel Monument —it's easy to find, in fact, you couldn't possibly hide such a monument—and climb the steps, after first paying your respects to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.
Reserve a day to go to Ostia Antica, the ancient Roman port town. Ostia once held over 100,000 residents, and much of the town is visible today. It's preserved much better than many of Rome's ancient sites, and has fewer visitors than Pompeii. Scuffling over pine straw covered streets, you'll have no trouble imagining ordinary Romans walking around, bathing, selling food in the taverns, swimming in the pool, renting out flats and catching a play at the theatre...just don't try to use the ancient toilets. (Use the modern ones instead.)
Now pull up a chair. You deserve a rest. Pour a glass of wine and revisit the places you've been...
Continue reading for some practical advice: