The White Mark: Church spire, or Georgian phallic symbol? (click for bigger view)
I don't think I've explained the concept of "a walk" before; that is, exactly what British people mean when they say they're going for a walk. Chances are they don't intend a leisurely stroll around the 'hood. To the English, fond of understatement, a walk is what an American, fond of overstatement, would call a hike.
Walks are big business here. There are Ramblers Associations (a walk is also called a ramble, by more serious walkers) and websites aimed at devotees. Bookstores have shelves of books dedicated to circular walks in every region of the English countryside. I have several books featuring walks around the Chilterns, and no two are the same. The hardest part (other than climbing the steep Chiltern hills) is deciding which one to take on a beautiful September Sunday.
The walks typically start at a pub or public carpark, and continue through woods, over pastures, along rivers, down ancient "roads", up and down hills, and across village lanes—all in one walk. With most of Britain's land open by law to public access, there are very few places that aren't networked by well-marked public footpaths.
The walks are almost always dog friendly, but you are expected to keep
your dog under control, and on a lead when near livestock, especially
during lambing season. The kissing gates and stiles are designed with dogs in mind—there is always room for even a retriever to scoot underneath. Only once have I had to heave her over a stile that was missing a "portcullis" entry for dogs.
An average walk is from 4-10 miles in length, but one must make allowances for the inevitable missteps. The directions, which seem so clear at first glance, often make no sense at all when the countryside looms: is this the clearing referred to, or is it further down? And what's a copse anyway?
On the walk we took today, near Watlington, the directions said "with the White Mark to the left, follow the trail down the hill". Only problem, we didn't see the White Mark, or in fact know what the White Mark was (having failed to do the proper research beforehand). So we wandered around a bit, following other trails, until we backtracked and saw an unmistakable chalk carving in the hillside.
The White Mark was carved in 1784 by Edward Horner, who thought the village church should have a spire that could be seen from miles away. So he carved one in the hillside. (There are a lot of chalk hill figures, mostly horses, in this part of England, the oldest being the Uffington White Horse.)
We managed to find the section of the walk that went along the Icknield Way—after all, the oldest path in Britain is hard to miss. But we made a mistake again when we went right instead of left on path W6. No problem; this way allowed us to walk near a lovely herd of cows.
We went down One Tree Hill, named for the ancient yew tree that once stood all alone on the hillside. Now there's a replacement yew, protected by a fence.
The views were spectacular, just like the description of the walk said. Rolling green hills in every direction, the village of Watlington nestled below as if posing for a postcard. In fact, the views are so great the escarpment was once used for a line of beacons to warn of the approaching Spanish armada!
For more photos, go here. And if you're interested in another walk that we took along the Icknield Way, go here to read about our hike last year along Dunstable Downs.
See how in that last sentence I typed "hike"? I am, after all, still an American fond of overstatement.