To number two, that is. According to Restaurant Magazine, it's El Bulli in Barcelona that's the number one restaurant this year. Which is just as well. Prices at the Fat Duck spiked to almost £100 for the tasting menu (not including wine, another £90) after they were named number one a year ago. I understand El Bulli is a lot more expensive, but it's only open 6 months a year. They have to make up the revenue somehow.
A couple of weeks ago I arranged a trip to the Fat Duck in nearby Bray for my gourmet lunch club, but I backed out (with a pretty big sigh of relief) when six people signed up. (You can only get a table for six at the Fat Duck). Instead a couple of us cheapskates went to Heston Blumenthal's pub next door, The Hind's Head. I'm glad I didn't splurge for the Fat Duck; the Hind's Head was underwhelming. To begin with there was nothing vegetarian on the menu except a goat cheese tart for an appetizer. I asked if they could whip something up, usually no problem at most chef-owned places, and on offer was a plate of pasta with broccoli and pesto. I coulda done that.
The service was perhaps the worst I've had anywhere. I had to ask for tea three times before I finally had a cup of Earl Gray placed before me; meanwhile they brought me a glass of wine I hadn't asked for, since I was driving. When I pointed out the error, they removed the wine, which seemed odd. Did they take it back and serve it to someone else?
Anyway, it seems Heston was getting a bit too big for his pants, so it's a good thing El Bulli has taken the heat off him.