Exactly one year ago this morning, I arrived, bleary eyed and jetlagged, at Gatwick Airport. When I got to the car park, I woke up immediately. The cars all had steering wheels on the wrong side, and when the driver pulled away, I realized he was driving on the left side of the road. Somehow, I imagined they only did that for the movies.
Speeding up the M23, tiny cars and vans flying past, I told myself I'd never, ever drive here. Though I'd never been intimidated by a gas pedal before, with all new road markings and road rules, I no longer felt so surefooted.
I still laugh when I think about that, every time I race to Gatwick to pick up guests.
Driving on the "wrong" side of the road is just one of many oddities I've gotten used to over the past year. In fact, they no longer seem odd. (Notice how these days I hardly ever post anything to Those Crazy Brits?) Maybe I've assimilated.
I no longer find it strange to hear "schedule" pronounced "shedule" nor do I cringe at the odd subject-verb agreement ("the government are"); in fact, I do it myself. My spelling has evolved into a form of "Britlish" (about three posts back, you'll see my struggle to spell "defense"). I pronounce "Birmingham" and "Cheltenham" without mentioning pork products, and I even go on about the "hurricuns".
I love to hear the multi-flavoured accents: the Northumberland Geordie,
the hefty Scottish brogue, the hodge-podge mid-country cadences, the proper
Londonese, the posh public school intonations. I find myself dropping
my own "R's"—car becomes "cah" and perfect is "puhfect". (Notice also,
the placement of the period outside the quote mark: another tiny detail
of Britishness I've picked up.)
BBC Radio 4 is my constant companion, tickling my fancy in a way NPR never did. In fact, I'm thinking of naming my next pet "Cromarty" after the Shipping Forecast. In the morning, I listen to the medley of stirring British anthems on BBC radio. My heartbeat quickens to Rule Brittania, slows to Greensleeves. (I haven't started humming Oasis tunes in the shower. Yet.)
We won't discuss The Archers. Everyone is allowed one mistake.
Somewhere along the way, I've fallen in love with England (Wales,
Ireland and eventually Scotland too). Just like a love affair, it's hard to say exactly what
aspect is most pleasing—is it the green hills? The history encroaching
on a thin modern veneer? The orgasmic flowers? The cute little Minis, the iPod of the car world?
Living here is a lesson in history. I've literally tripped over it, on steps sunken by the trodding of many feet. Serendipitous connecting-the-dots occurs often: One night I was reading a book about Charles Lamb, and it mentioned a street in London I'd just been walking down that afternoon. Even the dirt, after centuries of absorbing Man and his excrement, stinks with a history all its own.
Not all is roses, either the "Peace" kind or the War of. Commerce, for instance, is not as simple here as in the States, involving numerous trips to different shops in order to buy a newspaper, a book, and a lightbulb. And don't even get me started on lightbulbs: there are so many different types—bayonet, screw, narrow, wide, halogen, etc.—that you must carry one with you in order to replace it. (Not in your pocket, though.)
The British are remarkably patient. (The ones in a hurry all emigrated to Australia, I think, thus leaving the genetically placid.) I'm always the one standing in the queue, looking pointedly at my watch, or the ugly American harrying the waiter: "Do you realize (realise) we've been here an HOUR? I could get faster service in France!" (That gets their goat every time.)
And while we're on the subject: The dodgy décor (I don't care if you watched the last coronation on that sofa, it's rubbish!); the outdated plumbing (what's so difficult about single-handle faucets?) and have I mentioned the drafts lately?
But most of the time I'm happy to muddle through like a native, lightbulbs in my pocket. I make my way through the Rough Guide page by page, determined to see it all while I'm here. Other immigrants say they felt the same way their first year, afraid there's not enough time to see it all—in a place where the last thousand years are scattered around like litter on the A40.
So I rack up the miles, century by century, and wonder how people in America possibly manage, driving on the wrong side of the road.