Hampstead Heath in London—a scene I wish I could paint.
On Saturday I paid my first visit to Hampstead Heath in London. Despite having been told many times of how delightful it is, especially for walkers, I'd never been. But a friend suggested we visit Kenwood House, which overlooks the Heath. It's a bit hard to get to—it's a mile from the nearest tube, then a 20 minute walk or a 20 minute bus ride. And the nearest tube happens to be a 25-minute train ride plus three tube exchanges for me.
When I was living in London when I first moved here, people would recommend I go there with my dog, but sadly, we never figured out a way to get the dog there. By the time we had a car, we lived so near to other great walks there didn't seem to be a reason to head into town just for a good walk.
But Hampstead Heath is more than walking. The views are magnificent, too, especially from Parliament Hill, where kites fly year round.
And then there's the English Heritage property Kenwood House, full of priceless artwork, including a Vermeer, a Rembrandt, and so many portraits by Sir Joshua Reynolds, landscapes by Constable, and charming animal portraits by Landseer, you'd think you were in the Tate Britain. Photos weren't allowed, but I snapped a shot of a ceiling before I knew that...don't tell.
Kenwood House is a typical Palladian-style pile, remodeled by the architect Robert Adam. Entry is free, due to a bequest by the Lord Iveagh, who left it in the care of English Heritage upon his death in 1927. (Donations are welcome, however.) On weekends music concerts take place on the grounds, which apparently annoyed the neighbors in leafy Hampstead. It was because of an upcoming concert that much of the grounds were roped off, so I couldn't get a photo from a proper distance. However, if you saw the film Notting Hill, you saw the house—it was the scene of Julia Roberts' period film, where poor Hugh Grant learned he'd been played for a fool.
Hampstead Heath is known as the "lungs of London", though these days the air of London isn't quite as polluted as it once was (thank the congestion charge for that!). There are several ponds, some of them suitable for swimming (including Ladies Only, Men Only, and Mixed), and plenty of paths, some of them suitable for cycling.
Sometimes I forget how wonderful it is to live so near to London. But a hot July afternoon trudging up hills in Hampstead Heath reminds me right quick.
London isn't so far away.
Kenwood House, overlooking Hampstead Heath
The ceiling at Kenwood.
