Paris may be the City of Light, but when it comes to vegan living, it's certainly not the City of Enlightenment. Finding vegetarian food is difficult; finding anything vegan in the land of omelettes and cream sauces is downright impossible.
One ray of light, however, not far from the Arc de Triomphe, provides hope that that may be changing. The Gentle Gourmet vegan B&B, cooking school, and private dining establishment is based on the premise that Parisian gourmet standards can extend to vegan dining as well. And if the meal we shared there is any indication, it is succeeding remarkably.
I use the term "shared" deliberately, for that's exactly what it was. We booked a dinner reservation for two, via email, with the proprietor, Deborah, an American ex-pat who's lived in France several decades. Her knowledge of vegan cooking is combined with her experience growing her own vegetables at her farm in Normandy. As ex-pats, vegans, and "foodies", i.e. food enthusiasts, we had a lot in common.
After arriving at 17 rue Duret, we were invited into the dining room of the B&B, a small apartment just a few blocks from the Arc de Triomphe. While Deborah's daughter cooked and served the meal, we shared wine, homemade bread, and a Jamaican-inspired meal with Deborah and her son, Alex. More importantly, we shared conversation, making the experience much more intimate and rewarding than dining at a restaurant.
Over dinner, Deborah shared with me her vision of a more vegan-friendly Paris, and she's doing everything she can to make that happen. A vegan fair will again take place in the fall, and Deborah hopes to expand her B&B. She and I spoke of our mutual dismay at the lack of respect vegan fare receives from the Official Food Establishment. But that's partly the fault of European vegetarian restaurants that offer uninspired stews, gratins and nut loaves.
There was no lack of inspiration at the Gentle Gourmet. Our meal was as fine as any served in San Francisco, New York, or funky Mid-Western college towns. A refreshingly light Caribbean salad was followed by spicy ierk seitan and a sweet potato puree, served on a bed of sauteed cabbage. Since we were eating family style, a bowl of jerk sauce was passed around the table, allowing us to add more to our potatoes. For dessert, homemade coconut ice cream with mango puree brought a welcome reminder of the tropics on a cold February evening.
After we finished our meal, Lulu, a 2-year old black lab, made our acquaintance, wiggling excitedly as she greeted us. Sitting there sipping wine, and petting Lulu, we talked about our love of farm animals, and Deborah's plans for expanding her business. There is such a great demand from traveling vegans for a home-away-from-home in Paris that the B&B is booked many months in advance.
While I wasn't able to take a cooking class, there were several I'd like to take; better yet, I'd love get a group of friends together to share the experience. Often the biggest impediment to becoming vegan is simply lack of knowledge. How does one go about planning a vegan meal? What sort of dairy substitutes are out there? For those eager to eat lower on the food chain, yet still enjoy the gourmet experience their tastebuds crave, a cooking class is ideal.
Between April and October, the Gentle Gourmet offers garden tours of Paris, Normandy and the Loire Valley. Sounds divine, especially if Lulu comes along!
If you'd like to learn more about the The Gentle Gourmet, visit their website. And even if you can't stay at the B&B, check out their dinner menu and book reservation. You'll be delighted.
