Saf Restaurant, on Curtain Road in Shoreditch
"London's first and finest botanically-focused menu." That's the boast
of Saf Restaurant, an all-vegan and half raw restaurant in Shoreditch.
No diary, no egg, and no meat is found on the menu, and roughly half
the dishes have not been heated above 48 degrees C. There's still
plenty to eat for raw-phobes like me, however—and it's the best vegan
food I've had in a restaurant in a long time. (Poor France. They just
can't figure out why people would prefer to eat plants, and it shows.)
Saf opened last spring, to rave reviews. I learned about it when a
review was featured in one of my non-veg cooking magazines. Regular readers
will know I like to complain about the lack of vegan food here, both in
restaurants and in supermarkets. In fact, my favourite way to describe
my experience living here is that it's easy to be a vegetarian,
difficult to be vegan. The Brits love their cheese and eggs.
But I may have to eat my words, so to speak. I've now been to two—yes,
two—all-vegan restaurants in the last couple of months. Watch out, New
York, L.A., and Seattle—you may have to bow to London when it comes to
vegan eats. And Paris will just have to sit out this competition. Maybe
you could send your chefs across the Channel to learn a thing or two
from the chef at Saf—referred to in one article as the "Gordon Ramsay
of raw food".
Before I rave about the food, I want to mention the service. Our
servers, who had us all to themselves for the first half hour of our
meal, were very helpful, especially in trying to decode the ingredients when
I asked about the sauce served with the dumplings. I couldn't figure
out the source of the deliciousness, so the server asked the chef—turned out it was
balsamic vinegar that gave it its sweet tang. I wanted to drink it, it
was that good. Here I go, already raving about the food...ohh la la!
Yes, definitely send all the French chefs here at once. All of them. The servers too; they could also learn a few lessons from the Saf wait staff.
We started with Winter Dumplings, filled with "carmelised onion, woodear mushrooms, chinese cabbage, tofu, and carrot". The server also mentioned stinging
nettles, which I've been dying to try. I think it may have been in the
green splash of sauce that I mopped up with my finger after I finished
the dumplings. From now on I'll definitely give those prickly
botanicals more respect. As I mentioned, the dipping sauce was good
enough to drink. After seeing the extensive cocktail menu at Saf, I
suggest they include it with a glug of alcohol and call it a mixed
drink. Unfortunately, the server told me they were thinking about
changing the mixture to make it less sweet—apparently it changes from
day to day, according to the chef's whim.
On to the next course: my daughter ordered a ciabatta sandwich, which
was slathered with cashew cream cheese and contained capers, cucumbers,
rocket, and caramelized onions between two slices of ciabatta bread.
Alongside was a quinoa salad. The bites she allowed me to have were scrumptious—in fact, for my next cooking project, I'm going to try to
decode the quinoa salad, and maybe try my hand at cashew cheese. If it's this good, it will definitely be worth whatever effort is involved.
For my main, I ordered the pasta special of the day: potato and wild mushroom
ravioli, with an eggplant tomato sauce with horseradish and peppers. The
ravioli were delicious and filling—and cooked, unlike the raw beet ravioli
which are on the menu. I didn't taste the horseradish, which was grated
over the top like parmesan cheese. My next choice would have been the "Wild Mushroom Farinata: chick pea crepe with artichoke,
mushrooms,roasted tomato and tarragon aioli". I've never had a farinata
before—and now I'm convinced my life will not be full until I've tried
it.
Yes, there's definitely going to be another trip to Saf in my future.
We barely put a dent in the dessert menu, ordering the Pumpkin Pie to
share, served with nutmeg cream, candied pecans and espresso syrup.
This was the only genuinely raw item we ordered, sort of
inadvertently—perhaps I'm not such a raw food hater after all, because
it certainly tasted as good as any pumpkin pie I've had.
Saf is easy to find, if you can find the Old Street tube station. From
the station, turn left and walk east on Old Street until you come to
Curtain Road. Turn right, and the restaurant is just on the left. Upon leaving, toward the south we could see an unmistakable—and raw—landmark: The Gherkin, aka the Swiss Re building.
See? Not only does London now have boasting rights to the best vegan restaurant, they also have buildings named after vegan delicacies.
Paris, the ball's in your court. Let's see you top Saf.
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