The salad and dessert bar at La Faim des Haricots
If you've ever been to France, you know how difficult it is to find vegetarian food, much less vegan. Your best bet is to find a veggie restaurant, and hope there's something vegan on the menu.
There are, as far as I can tell, two vegetarian restaurants in
downtown Toulouse. I went to both of them, one of them twice, for lunch and
dinner. While neither was particularly bad, I wish vegetarian restaurants offered more variety, especially in veggie-unfriendly countries like France. Because if this is your first impression of vegetarian food, you won't be too inclined to become vegetaria, much less vegan.
One odd thing about vegetarian dining in Toulouse: Both restaurants offered a buffet-style meal, with a salad bar and in one case, a selection of hot foods as well. Don't expect to load your plates up, American-style, again and again. It is France, after all, where the women are slim and the men pretty slim too.
First the good news: Saveurs Bio offered a varied and interesting buffet, with a selection of hot items, and also a salad and dessert buffet. You could also order from the regular menu. But beware: Saveurs Bio isn't 100% vegetarian. There were 3 or 4 non-veg dishes, but in France, having more than one vegetarian choice is quite an accomplishment, so I won't insist on a purity test when, frankly, I was lucky to have anything vegan to eat at all. The food was good—we arrived about the time they opened, so the dishes was fresh and hot. The atmosphere was upscale, but we had the misfortune of sitting near a room where young children were screaming. Unusual in France, home of well-behaved children, and annoying to diners hoping for a quiet meal. But the food and the wine and the service made up for that. The cost of the meal was around 45 euros for two people, including dessert and a bottle of wine. Not bad at all, considering we left very full and satisfied.
Saveurs Bio is located near Place Wilson, in a rather upscale part of town. Open all the usual hours.
Saveurs Bio restaurant, in Toulouse
Now the not-so-good-news: When a restaurant window is covered with awards, you expect good things. And with a mention in my trusty Rough Guide to France, I expected La Faim des Haricots to be a real treat. I set out for lunch there my first day in Toulouse, and finally found it in the warren of twisty streets and alleys near Place du Capitole. The service was friendly, and I was soon invited to help myself to the salad bar. I liked this part: There were several salads, many of them vegan, and each capable of being a distinct chunk of an entire meal. Quinoa, rice, couscous, and filling grains are a welcome sign. There was a curried courgette salad that was particularly good and—not a minor thing—innovative.
I also wanted to try the plat du jour, a vegetable stew with cauliflower, carrots, and green beans served (by me) over rice. There were also several quiches nearby, but I didn't pay much attention to those. The stew was vegan, and nicely spiced, but nothing too special. It did fill me up for an afternoon tramping around Toulouse.
The next night I took my husband back to La Faim des Haricots, hoping there would be more variety in the evening. The menu offered a vegetable curry as the sole hot dish (other than the quiches, or tartes—not sure if there's any difference). But the "curry" turned out to be the same vegetable stew I'd had for lunch the previous day. I'm not even sure they made a new batch—by now it was lukewarm, and the vegetables mushy.
My impression of La Faim des Haricots took a nosedive, and I wondered if any of those restaurant reviewers who'd offered them the awards on the window had bothered to try the restaurant the next day. I understand they've only been open for evening meals—le soir—a few months. Perhaps they need to rethink the effort that requires. Or maybe we just caught them on a bad night.
Here's my real gripe, though: When it comes to vegetarian restaurants, we vegans are pretty much a captive audience. If we want to eat a hot meal when we travel in Europe, especially France, we have to find a veggie restaurant, or hope for a veg-friendly Asian or other ethnic restaurant. Eating warmed-up stew, euphemistically renamed "curry", may be the best we can get outside of Paris. That's a shame. France is known for its fine cuisine. They should offer vegans the same dining standards, especially in modern, young, university-centred towns like Toulouse.
Fortunately, Toulouse has much more to offer than dining. I was perfectly content to march up and down its narrow streets, looking for delights of a more eccliastical nature—St Sernin Basilica, Cathédrale Saint-Étienne, and Couvent des Jacobins. Many monks were vegetarian, after all—hopefully they had better food on offer than today's Toulouse provides.
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